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Table Top Mountain Day Hike
Sonoran Desert National Monument
March 9, 2014
by Chuck Parsons
  GPS Map 
  GPS Map 
by Bill Zimmermann

It’s always interesting to note how many times as a hiking club we repeat certain hikes, while other trails do not see the boots of Arizona Trailblazers for many years after the first visit. The Peralta Trail to Fremont Saddle or the Hunter Trail to the top of Picacho Peak, for instance, have each been hiked by the Trailblazers many times over the years. But I noticed that Table Top Mountain was last hiked by our predecessor, the Motorola Hiking Club, way back in November, 1998, nearly 16 years ago. So I thought it might be time to revisit this mountain after so many years have gone by.

Feb
Dave and Chuck on the South Peak of Table Top Mountain.
[photo by Dave]
So in early February I asked Dave French if he would care to join me on an exploratory hike to check out the route to the trailhead and see what the trail conditions were like to the top of Table Top Mountain.

Thus we find ourselves on a cool and windy day on February 10 hiking the trail to the top of this seldom visited mountain in the Table Top Wilderness area of the vast Sonoran Desert National Monument.

It turned out to be a great hike. We both made it to the top, and we had the mountain completely to ourselves since we never saw another soul for the entire day. Thanks for joining me, Dave.

Feb_2014_Dave2
Table Top Mountain beckons in the distance. [photo by Dave]

Now flash forward a full month to March 9 and I’m back once again at the Table Top Mountain Trailhead, joined now by eight fellow Arizona Trailblazers, ready to tackle this mountain again.

drive
The bumpy road to Table Top Mountain Trailhead. [photo by Wayne]
The trailhead is a challenge to reach in itself, with nearly 20 miles of dirt and gravel roads to travel, including numerous deep washes and creek beds to cross, with the last five miles or so very rough and rutted.

That last section is guaranteed to put your kidneys and bladder into overdrive, and everyone makes a mad dash for the restroom or the nearby trees as soon as we reach the trailhead. Or as Anikó more delicately puts it, we are all quite anxious to take a bio break.

This day is virtually identical to February 10, cool and windy at the trailhead with clear blue skies and a temperature of nearly 70 degrees. And it appears that we might have the mountain to ourselves once again since there are no other vehicles at the trailhead, and it’s been well over a week since anyone else has signed the trail register. The 34,400-acre Table Top Wilderness was created in 1990 and lies in the southeast corner of the vast Sonoran Desert National Monument just south of Interstate 8.

group
Nine Arizona Trailblazers gather at the Table Top Mountain Trailhead. [photo by Bill]
Front Row: Bill, Quy, Anikó, Gary A.
Back Row: Chuck, Wayne, Gary G., Edith, Chip.

Created in 2001, the 496,000-acre Sonoran Desert National Monument preserves one of the most pristine and unspoiled sections of Arizona’s vast Sonoran Desert.

sign
A well-weathered sign marks the official trailhead.
[photo by Wayne]
group
Arizona Trailblazers are ready to hit the trail.
[photo by Wayne]
mountain
Our objective looms in the distance. [photo by Chuck]

The time is 9:30 on a cool and beautiful Saturday morning in early March as we begin hiking on a long-abandoned dirt road in a northeast direction toward the base of Table Top Mountain, looming in the distance against a brilliantly blue Arizona sky. At 4,356 feet, Table Top Mountain is the highest point of the three mountain ranges that lie within Sonoran Desert National Monument. “Chuck, are you sure the mountain is only two miles away? It looks more like five miles to me. Just how long is this hike anyway?”

hikers
Trailblazers hike toward the base of Table Top Mountain. [photo by Quy]
top
The trail meanders through lush desert vegetation. [photo by Quy]
yellow
The hills are alive with blooming brittlebush. [photo by Chuck]
hikers
We start gaining elevation on the Table Top Mountain Trail. [photo by Bill]
bush
Brittlebush, up close and personal. [photo by Wayne]
This is a remote and very isolated area, and the sense of almost complete isolation can be a bit overwhelming and intimidating for some people, especially if they are hiking alone. The trailhead sign, a picnic table, and the lone pit toilet are the only signs of civilization for miles around, and we soon leave those far behind as we make our way toward the mountain. The only sounds present are those of our own voices and the wind blowing across the desert. Not even the sound of an overhead plane.

The trail is relatively flat for a while as it follows the old dirt road, before beginning to wind up and down through a series of washes and traversing through a forest of giant saguaros, chain fruit, teddy bear and staghorn chollas, prickly pear cactus, and blooming ocotillos, creosote, and brittlebush.

Aniko
Anikó stands next to a very pregnant
saguaro, ready to assist in the live birth.
[photo by Chuck]

Although not officially spring just yet, the warm spring-like weather we’ve been experiencing in recent weeks, coupled with the blooming flora of the Sonoran Desert, creates an almost intoxicating aroma wafting through the air as we hike onward toward the mountain.

After about a mile of hiking, the trail gradually starts to bend northward and begins a gradual, but steady, climb before heading due east toward the base of the mountain. We cross several large washes along the way as the trail moves around the base of the mountain. Beyond the two-mile point the trail begins a serious ascent up the west face of Table Top Mountain. At about three miles we encounter a massive rockslide consisting of thousands of tons of jumbled and blackened basalt boulders running for hundreds of feet down the mountainside. The trail then goes into a steep series of endless switchbacks as it continues to relentlessly claw its way up the west face of the mountain, gaining nearly 2,000 feet of elevation in the process.

Aniko
The camera truly loves Anikó. [photo by Bill]
From time to time our ace photographer Quy, who specializes in the flora along the trail, stops to photograph the wide assortment of wildflowers we encounter on this hike. Apparently the heavy rains that soaked the desert just a week or two earlier, coupled with the warmer than normal temperatures across southern Arizona’s desert, helped awaken thousands of long-dormant wildflower seeds lying just beneath the surface. And Arizona wildflowers have been in very short supply on most of our desert hikes this spring, much to Quy’s chagrin, due to Arizona’s prolonged drought.

So she plans to make up for lost time on this hike as she tries to capture at least one of every flower species in bloom, as seen in the following series of colorful pictures. Where she manages to find all of these wildflowers still remains a mystery to me, since I never see the majority of the flowers she photographs. H’mm – I wonder. Do you suppose these are from Quy’s private collection of stock photos she always has on hand? No, just kidding Quy. Whenever I question her about this, she always tells me that I just need to open my eyes more and look around because the flowers are there and very easy to overlook. That’s for certain, since most of us probably don’t see all the flowers that Quy typically does. She definitely has an eye for her subject matter:

orange
Globemallow is blooming across the desert.
purple
Blue Lupine.
purple
Desert Bells.
red
This ocotillo is full of flowering buds.
purple
Geranium.
purple
Desert Star.

The footing gets a bit tricky as we continue to negotiate the switchbacks up the mountain, with lots of loose gravel and steep drop-offs along the way. If anyone loses their footing here and starts sliding, it could be a quick one-way trip down a very steep, rocky slope. And it’s a long, long way to the bottom. So we have to take our time and watch our footing carefully as we hug the inside edge of the trail. Coming back down through these loose talus sections is going to be even more challenging and treacherous. Using a couple of hiking sticks gives you a lot more stability on this type of terrain, but it’s still no guarantee that you won’t take a sudden and unexpected tumble.

rock
A basalt rockslide runs for hundreds of feet down the mountain. [photo by Chuck]
trail
The rocky trail hugs the mountainside. [photo by Bill]
wall
Mysterious rock wall constructed of stacked basalt boulders. [photo by Chuck]
group
Nine Trailblazers stand on the South Summit of Table Top Mountain. [photo by Bill]

As we get closer to the top of the mountain, we see several low-lying rock walls about five feet high and constructed from stacked basalt boulders, presumably taken from the rockslide. These walls are a bit of a mystery since no one really knows their history or the reason for their construction. Were they built by the Hohokams, who inhabited central Arizona several centuries ago and then seemingly vanished? We know the Hohokams constructed an ingenious network of desert canals for water delivery in the present-day Phoenix area, utilized and expanded centuries later by Salt River Project for its own water delivery system. Were these some sort of wind shelters or protective walls? We may never know for certain.

hikers
Five Trailblazers gather around the North Summit marker. [Bill]
Finally, we all make it to the South Summit of Table Top Mountain, where we enjoy commanding 360-degree views and take a well-deserved rest break. But the gentle breezes that have helped cool us up to this point now give way to steady 20-30 MPH winds on top, making it feel much cooler at 65 degrees with the wind chill factor and forcing us to break out long-sleeve shirts and jackets that most of us had stowed away long ago.

Although we are already standing at 4,356 feet, the North Summit is another 17 feet higher and beckons irresistibly to Bushwhack Bill who decides to take a small contingent of hikers with him and head for higher ground to the north. So four of us hunker down to lunch against the chill winds on the South Summit, while Bill and four others head for the North Summit where they will await the same fate, if not worse.

view
Distant mountains and ranges from the South Summit. [photo by Chuck]
top
The North Summit of Table Top Mountain. [photo by Chuck]
top
Another view from the top. [photo by Quy]
agave
Large century plant on Table Top Mountain. [photo by Wayne]
The two summits of Table Top Mountain are connected by a short ridge that dips downward from the South Summit, disappearing under a heavy cover of brush and requiring about a half-mile of serious bushwhacking. So we wave goodbye to Bill, Anikó, Gary G., Edith, and Gary A. as they hike the ridge over to the North Summit.

Although not quite as level as a table top, the top of this mountain is surprisingly wide and flat with lots of boulders and desert grasses, along with ocotillos, creosote, yuccas, prickly pear cactus, agaves like the one shown by Wayne in the process of pushing up its large flowering stalk, and various other shrubby plants. But not one single giant saguaro inhabits this mountain top: not a favorable environment for this giant of the cactus world.

panel
Chip points to a small solar panel on the
South Summit. [photo by Wayne]
panel
Close-up view of the solar panel.
[photo by Chip]
coast_survey
USGS marker on the North Summit. [photo by Bill]

While waiting for Bill and his group to return, we do a little exploring and find several small solar panels hidden among the boulders with attached wires and cables and eventually determine they are the power source for several small transmitters cleverly concealed among the rocks on the summit.

If you look closely at the picture taken by Chip, you can see a small silver antenna protruding from the top of the rock pile that conceals one radio.

Bill’s foot is firmly planted next to the USGS reference marker embedded in one of the boulders at the high point on the North Summit.

Lunch over, we watch Bill’s group slowly make their way back across the ridge to the South Summit, where we all join forces once again for the hike back down the mountain to the trailhead. I tell everyone to take their time and watch their footing very carefully on the way back down, especially through the loose talus sections where gravel and talus on a steep, smooth rock surface can be almost as bad as walking across a hard floor covered with ball bearings. On this trail an unexpected and out-of-control slide could be disastrous. That’s always a major concern when descending a steep trail like this.

down
Trailblazers head back down the mountain. [photo by Quy]
view
An endless forest of giant saguaros as far as the eye can see. [photo by Quy]

As soon as we drop below the summit and start hiking in full sun, it’s almost as if someone turned off the wind machine. We are back to a gentle breeze once again and, warmed by the sun, most of us are soon down to T-shirts for the remainder of the hike. We make good time on the way back down with no major slip and slide incidents, and we’re all back at the trailhead just before 3:00 PM.

white
Fringe Twinevine [photo by Quy]
white
Desert Zinnia [photo by Quy]
yellow
Western Wallflower [photo by Quy]
pink
Mojave Buckwheat [photo by Quy]
red
Buckhorn cholla blossom [photo by Quy]
link
Prickly pear blossom [photo by Quy]

The total hiking time is a little over five hours.

We clean up and pack away our gear for the long, bumpy ride back to the town of Maricopa and an early dinner at Cilantro’s Mexican Cocina. It’s been yet another great hiking experience with terrific hiking companions in the beautiful Sonoran Desert of southern Arizona.

meal
Enjoying dinner at Cilantro’s in Maricopa. [photo by Quy]
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updated May 28, 2020