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Red Mountain & Slate Mountain Day Hikes
Flagstaff
July 12, 2014
by John Richa

This was a “double header” of day hikes because the two hikes were rather short. Going this far, some 33 miles north of Flagstaff, i.e. 150 miles north of Phoenix, it was warranted to make the hikes long enough by combining a 2.5 miles short sprint to visit the inner guts of an extinct volcano, namely Red Mountain, and a 5 mile round trip hike at a nearby Slate Mountain. The combination of both hikes on one day was just perfect.

At 7:00 AM, 13 hikers gathered at our usual starting point, Bell Road and I-17 Park & Ride. We were to meet two additional hikers at Target in Flagstaff, namely Rudy and Monika. Car pools organized, we started out on our drive north about 7:15 with our usual first stop at the famous McDonald’s at Camp Verde. At the designated place in Flagstaff we meet Rudy and Monika and proceed to drive 33 miles north to the Red Mountain trailhead, a short distance in from the main highway 180.

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Red Mountain, northwest of Flagstaff
What is the Red Mountain? The mountain, located in the Coconino National Forest of northern Arizona, is a volcanic cinder cone that rises 1,000 feet above the surrounding landscape. It is unusual in that it has the shape of a “U”, open to the west, and lacks the symmetrical shape of most cinder cones.

In addition, a large natural amphitheater cuts into the cone’s northeast flank. Erosional pillars called hoodoos decorate the amphitheater, and many dark mineral crystals erode out of its walls. Studies by U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) and Northern Arizona University scientists suggest that Red Mountain formed in eruptions about 740,000 years ago.

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Interpretive signs help us understand the geology.

At the trailhead we are welcomed by a USDA sign that describes what we are about to witness. We saddle up and pose for our traditional group picture.

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Meet the fabulous fifteen! [photo by John]
back: John, Sandy, Dwayne, Mike, Tim, Jeanne, Rudy, Chuck, Jim
front:  Arturo, Gary, Tina, Barbara, Monika, Quy
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What is Red Mountain? [photo by John]
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The trail is well marked. [photo by Quy]

At 10:30 AM we started our 1.5 mile trek to the volcano’s entrance. The temperature was already hot at 81° but felt like 90°. The trail was pretty flat, but mostly in the sun and with backpacks full of provisions, it felt hotter. The trail was interspersed with shade trees under which we took refuge to cool off and to wait for all fifteen of us to regroup.

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Hikers get started in good time. [photo by Quy]
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Hmmm — Let’s stop and think this over. [photo by Quy]
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To get into the crater, one must first climb a steep rudimentary ladder. [photos by John]

Once inside the crater the view of the volcano’s walls reveals unusual forms. There was a lot of shade cast by some large ponderosa pine trees.

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John and Rudy enjoy the view. [photo by Barbara]
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An unusual rock formation spiked our interest. [photo by Quy]
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Pockets of softer rock have eroded into cavities. Don’t tell your dentist. [photo by Quy]
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It’s a mighty steep climb from this side. [photo by Quy]
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Red rock columns tower high above us. [photo by Quy]
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Shade will keep reflections off the lens of my camera. [photo by John]
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Shadows of the branches make an intricate pattern. [photo by John]
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Monika finds the best light. [photo by Barbara]

We spent about half an hour exploring the insides of the crater. The walls were smooth and rounded from erosion and one could see many hoodoos. Never have I seen so many hikers taking so many pictures with regular cameras or cell phone cameras.

Chuck was correct in telling me that I will have no problem getting enough pictures for my trip report. I stopped counting at 400.

Some Trailblazers will go to any length just to get the right shot with the right angle whether lying on the ground or performing an acrobatic stunt on a slippery rock.

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Quy shows us how to get the right picture at ground level. [photo by Gary]

We seem to have geologists on our team. Barbara and Chuck want to inspect the volcanic rock to determine its authenticity or its age — yes, about 740,000 years old.

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Well, this rock looks volcanic to me. [photos by Jim, John]
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Watch where you step, Rudy. [photo by John]

While Rudy negotiates the slippery rocks gingerly, others are scaling the smooth ridge like goats.

After 30 minutes of exploring and photographing every nook and cranny, it was time to exit the crater. We are back to what I would nickname “Jacob’s ladder”. We go gingerly, one by one, down this steep ladder. To our left one can see this large mound of black and loose volcanic cinders.

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If I put my foot here it’ll be O.K. [photo by Quy]
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Ease on down that ladder. [photo by Jim]
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The going gets pretty straightforward from here. [photo by Quy]
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A tree has taken root in the volcanic cinders. [photo by Jim]

This short hike took us 1½ hours in total. We started the trailhead at an elevation of 6,760' and by the time we reached the crater we were at an elevation of 7,047', pretty flat. This was a short and easy hike; mind you that our elevation here is the same as that of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Though it is short, just the elevation and the heat, in and of themselves, make it more challenging. There is less oxygen in the air and muscles need oxygen in order to be nourished and to function properly.

It is noon and it is time to drive south to pick up Forest Road 191, where two miles in we find our next trailhead. This is Slate Mountain.

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Here is what slate rocks look like: grayish color flat rocks. [photos by Gary]

Understandably, the early settlers, unbeknownst to them, made a mistake in naming the gray scattered rocks across the mountain “slate” and naturally, they named the peak “Slate Mountain”. As it turned out, it wasn’t slate after all, but a type of volcanic rock called rhyolite. But, as the old name was well established and “Gray Rhyolite Mountain” doesn’t have much oomph to it, so the original name stood.

At the trailhead we rest and take our lunch break before ascending to the top of the mountain, a gentle but consistent climb of 855 ft. in 2.5 miles trek. Our starting elevation now is 7,408 and by the time we reach the top it will be 8,190 ft. The mountain peak is actually higher than the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, which stands at 8,000 ft. We needed the energy and hydration as the temperature now was 83° but felt like 90° and we could feel the humidity in the air. Just look at everyone’s forehead and you could see the sweat.

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Happiness is a nice, warm hike. [photo by John]
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Hey, don’t sweat the small stuff. [photo by John]
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... After all, folks, isn’t it all small stuff? [photo by John]

At 1:30 PM we started our ascent, but not before having our group picture taken to memorialize this hike.

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Slate Mountain, here we come! [photo by John]
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The sign tells us what to expect. [photo by John]
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We start down the trail. [Gary]

Slate Mountain offers hikers a fine trek through piñon, juniper, yucca, alligator juniper, ponderosa pines, rabbit brush, fir, and many less preponderant vegetation, capped by tremendous vistas of much of northern Arizona, leaving one breathless at the beauty of it all.

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Afternoon clouds play on the mountains. [photo by Barbara]
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We’re hiking through sunshine and shadow. [photo by Barbara]
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I don’t know. Wasn’t there a chance of rain in the weather forecast? [photo by Barbara]
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San Francisco Peaks dominate the view to the southeast. [photo by Barbara]

The trail gently climbs, and is fairly wide. Shortly after you leave the trailhead you come across a small draw rimmed with burned trees from a fire that took place several years ago. You can see several nearby mountains that have been stripped of their vegetation on the account of that fire. The trail makes several long, lazy switchbacks as it works its way up the mountain, looping all the way around the peak as you near the top. We came across several trees that have fallen across the trail and it became an acrobatic challenge of whether to climb over the fallen trees or crawl underneath them – or have your own individual style.

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Rudy plays the harmonica while we plan our climb. [photo by Gary]
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Onward and upward. [photo by Quy]
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Tim doesn’t have to go too far out of his way. [photo by Barbara]
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Why haven’t the sawyers cleared this off the trail? [photo by Barbara]
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Arturo and Gary step lively over a fallen log. [photo by Quy]
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At least this log has a handle. [photo by Quy]

Because of the heat and elevation, we stopped on several occasions for a short break to rehydrate and to allow the slower hikers to catch up with the forward group. There was plenty of shaded stop overs along the trail and on one occasion none other than our Rudy pulls out his harmonica and starts to serenade us.

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Let’s breathe a bit before moving on. [photo by Quy]
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Oh! Is that you, Jim? [photo by Gary]

At 2:45 PM that is, in one hour and fifteen minutes, we made it to the top. We felt a nice breeze but it was still hot. All along the trek to the top we kept a watchful eye on the skies, since there was a 40% chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon. You do not want to get caught on a mountain during lightning! Our hiking poles can serve as lightning rods and there is no safe shelter from the thunderstorms when in the wilderness and certainly not under a tree. The clouds were all around us but they were high and scattered, although a storm can sneak up on you in a flash. We unsaddled our backpacks, rehydrated, ate our snacks and rested our tired feet.

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John knows the way from here. [photo by Barbara]
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Jim and Arturo try contacting the outside world. [photo by John]
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This log serves as a bench with a view. [photo by John]

The view from the top of the mountain was magnificent. We could see the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in the distance, some 50 miles away.

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We get a distant view of the Grand Canyon’s north rim. [photo by Gary]

Mind you, the North Rim is only 8,000 ft. in elevation and we were from our vantage point at already 8,200 ft. in elevation. Our two “Ham Hikers”, we mean ham radio operators, Jim and Arturo, were testing their skills connecting to some other operators in the area, or who knows, maybe they were trying to connect to some aliens from outer space from this high vantage point.

Arturo
Earth to Arturo. Is anyone out there? [photo by Quy]

The view from the mountain top in 360 degrees was just phenomenal. You could see the weirdly eroded inner basin of Red Mountain to the north of us, the San Francisco Peaks near Flagstaff in the distance southwest of us, with Mt. Humphreys at 12,633 ft. in elevation, the highest mountain peak in Arizona, and Kendrick Peak to the south of us at 10,418 ft. in elevation. If you had a strong pair of binoculars, you could also see the vast expanse of the Painted Desert, characterized by delicate shades of cream and pink and purple, sprawling across the northeast. Look carefully at these last pictures and try to admire the dark blue skies and the scattered white and gray clouds. They are attempting to form a late afternoon thunderstorm. We were fortunate to escape this time mother nature’s wrath of thunderstorms and I wonder if it had anything to do with our “Ham Hikers” talking to someone of the outer world! After about half an hour of resting, rehydrating, snacking, and photo shooting the views from all angles, we started our descent.

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We’re on the down grade, at last! [photo by Barbara]

Going down the trail was rather easy and quick. By 4:00 PM we reached the trailhead, where the forward group has already started a “beer party”. There is nothing better or more refreshing than a cold beer after an arduous hike. We sat on a wooden fence and unwound. Some of us changed into more comfortable shoes. All 15 of us were accounted for. Thumbs up! Yeah!

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Trailblazers unwind. All 15 of us are accounted for. [photo by Quy]

At Michael’s suggestion, since we were so close to the Lava River Cave, and since most of us have never hiked into the lava tube or even seen it, we took a short detour on the way back to Flagstaff. After about five miles of driving in the woods on dirt roads we arrived at the Lava River Cave. Much to our surprise, there were lots of other visitors. We looked around and peeked inside the cave opening. You could not see very much inside the cave because it is pitch dark. However, you could feel the cold air coming out of the cave’s opening. It was refreshing; mind you, the temperature inside the cave is between 35 and 40 degrees all year round. Of course our cameras were clicking away and here are some photos of this event. We are definitely putting this excursion on our calendar for a future combination of hikes with another short hike in this area.

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I see lights. Somebody must be in the cave. [photo by Gary]
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“Let me tell you all about it.” [photo by Gary]
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O.K., Gary, what do you say? [photo by John]
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Both Quy and Jim get a closer look at the cave. [photos by Jim]
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A feast for happy hikers! [photo by John]

Now comes the best part of the day: we are tired, thirsty and hungry and a square meal and a cold beer is just what our veteran hiker recommended. We took Michael’s advice and patronized Buster’s restaurant on Milton Road, the main drag through Flagstaff.

The menu was good and reasonable and the venue was fine except for the waitress who had a “cocked eye” while taking our group pictures in her restaurant. She left an indelible impression on us though!

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Tina and Dwayne at Buster’s. [photo by Quy]
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Just the place for after a day of hiking. [photo by John]

While dining, I don’t know what our “Ham Boys” operators did or say to the “One” above, but the skies opened up on us with a powerful thunderstorm of rain and hail. Luckily for us we were safe inside the restaurant.

And when we left the restaurant we saw the rainbow, a promise of no more rain or hail for the time being, and we could see a beautiful sunset reflected in the red skies above us.

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Rainbow over northern Arizona. [photo by Barbara]
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Clouds catch the gleam of the setting sun. [photo by Barbara]
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The bronze west bids us farewell. [photo by Barbara]

We said our good-byes and drove to Phoenix, where we arrived at about 10:00 PM. It was a long day, but a fun-filled day with lots of things to see along the way, and we learned a few new things. Thankfully, it was a safe day for all of us and all 15 members were accounted for by the end of the day.

Thanks to all of you who participated. We look forward to seeing you again on future hikes!


Jim Buyens is our score keeper. Below you will find his statistics on our two hikes as reported by his GPS:

Red Mountain Slate Mountain Total
Total Distance: 2.79 miles 4.49 miles 7.28 miles
Moving Time: 0 hours 59 minutes 1 hours 30 minutes 2 hours 29 minutes
Stopped Time: 0 hours 37 minutes 0 hours 54 minutes 1 hours 31 minutes
Average Speed Moving:  2.9 mph 2.8 mph 2.9 mph
Average Speed Overall: 1.7 mph 1.7 mph 1.7 mph
Starting Elevation: 6760 feet 7408 feet 6760 feet
Maximum Elevation: 7047 feet 8190 feet 8190 feet
Total Ascent: 205 feet 640 feet 845 feet
Starting Time: 10:25 AM 1:30 PM 10:25 AM
Finishing Time: 12.01 PM 3:54 PM 3:54 PM
Duration: 1 hours 36 minutes 2 hours 24 minutes 4 hours 00 minutes
Starting Temperature: 81° 83° 81°
Finishing Temperature: 83° 81° 81°
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Arizona Trailblazers Hiking Club, Phoenix, Arizona
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updated July 9, 2019