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Look before you leap, Trailblazers.
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Perfect hiking weather and spirited companionship made this hike
memorable. Recent rains had washed the sky and settled the dust.
The desert colors were vibrant and the air was cool and invigorating.
We drove to the parking area just off the road to Horse Mesa Dam and
left two cars there to take the drivers back Tortilla Trailhead at the
end of the hike. Then we drove on down the road to Tortilla Trailhead
to begin hiking.
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I took a likin’ to the lichens.
Mesquite Ridge beckons us on a hike for another day.
Our first half mile is close to the Apache Trail highway (Arizona 88).
There are many places where we could have climbed down into the valley,
but Ted warned us that those canyons are full of boulders and prickly
brush.
Some of the best scenery is nearby. Lichens decorate the rocks in
their many bright colors. Each color is a different species of lichen,
which is itself a symbiotic plant community of algae and fungus.
After several overlooks we leave the highway and head down into the
valley toward a tributary of Mesquite Creek. There’s a primitive
road, marked as “Jeep Trail” on the map, which takes us
by a power line in a generally northwest direction.
The road goes nowhere, but was probably built to maintain the power
line. When the road bends to the west we leave it to resume our
bushwhacking as we follow a smooth ridge down to a stream crossing.
To get up on Coronado Mesa we have to gain back all the elevation
we just lost on our way down from the highway.
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Recent rains have left water in the streamlets.
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The direction is mostly northwest as we cross two little streambeds
and climb up on a ridge.
A Gila Monster pokes his head out from
under a rock, but then makes a hasty retreat when he sees us.
Although we can’t see the highway from here, traffic noise
assures us that it isn’t far away.
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After crossing the highway we head east over a tributary to Fish
Creek Canyon and proceed to our first overview.
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Fish Creek Peak dominates the southeastern skyline.
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The view is wildly panoramic! Fish Creek is flowing down in the
bottom of the canyon. We can hear the rapids. The canyon walls,
intricately carved by eons of erosion, are frosted with green
vegetation and bright golden poppies. If this were anywhere but
Arizona it would be a national park!
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Fish Creek Canyon, from the top.
I say! Climbing up to the pinnacle was easy enough.
The best-known overlook is a rock pinnacle that juts out over the
edge of Fish Creek Canyon. To get up there we have to climb a
narrow ridge with a steep drop-off on both sides. Fantastic rock
formations are down below us on either side.
“Now how do we get down from here?” The rocks
aren’t too steep, but everyone finds their own approach to
getting by that scary drop-off. All make a safe descent.
In the southeast we can see Fish Creek Peak in the distance,
on the other side of our hike to upper Fish Creek Canyon a year ago.
Ted doesn’t know anyone who has climbed Fish Creek Peak, but
someone probably has.
There are more overviews of the canyon, each a little farther
downstream. We climb back to the main part of Coronado Mesa and
make our way out to several more of them. Each overview has its
unique perspective and photo-ops.
Each of the hikers has their own style of approaching the canyon
overview. Some climb down to the most precarious perch with the
most spectacular drop-off, while others are content to compose
their pictures from a safe and sane vantage point up on the rim.
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Erosion is the master sculptor of Fish Creek Canyon.
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Finally we head south, to one of the high points of the mesa. From
the top we get a distant view of the Flatiron and hoodoos on peak
5024 of the Superstitions. Then we walk farther and see the parking
lot where the hike ends.
Ted shuttles the other drivers back to Tortilla Trailhead to pick
up their cars, explaining to them the secrets of navigation on
this off-trail hike.
“You’ve got to watch for those road signs.”
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The remaining hikers walk over to the junction of the Horse Mesa Dam
road and the Apache Trail highway. Here we separate those who want to
visit Tortilla Flat from those who want to go straight home, and
wish each other a pleasant afternoon.
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This hike is described in
Footloose from Phoenix, by Ted Tenny, pages 93-98.
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