The Wind Cave trail on Pass Mountain has an official length of about 1.6 miles, and an elevation gain of somewhat over 800 feet. The trail does continue beyond the advertised end at Wind Cave, however, and a hike to the top of the south peak is well worth the extra 0.3 miles and 400 feet elevation gain. This trail is a very good one for a number of reasons, but if the hike of 3/21 is any indication, things are changing fast, and some of the joys offered by the natural surroundings may soon go the way of Squaw Peak and Camelback. There were four other people on this hike aside from myself, though no one from the Hiking Club went along this time.

The trail starts at about 1900 feet at the eastern side of Usury Mountain State Park, and almost immediately enters the Tonto National Forest. In the past, there were typically only a dozen cars or so in the parking lot, and always several spaces available. While the trail was by no means empty of hikers, there were relatively few people, and the trail was peaceful. This time, however, the main lot and every other lot for half a mile was filled to capacity, and the throngs of adult and children hikers clamoring about at the trailhead told us that today’s hike would be anything but peaceful. Most of the children were Cub Scouts on a Saturday morning nature hike, which suggests it was just bad timing on our part; but driving north on Ellsworth, one can clearly see that high-density residential developers have finally slithered into this neighborhood, and will soon have it packed to the point of gridlock with new homes. Anyone who wishes to experience the natural tranquility of the area had better do so before it’s too late.

The trail meanders lazily across the gentle western rise beneath the mountain, crossing several washes along the way. The closeness and variety of plant life is amazing. Mature Saguaros, barrel cacti, Ocotillo, Teddy Bear and other types of cholla abound, as well as dozens of different kinds of desert trees, shrubs, and chaparral. On this particular occasion, we were also rewarded by the after- effects of the heavy rains of February; the desert floor was practically invisible beneath the thick, green grass, and a half dozen different types of flowers were in full bloom, covering the mountain’s slopes with a brilliant patchwork of yellow and purple.

The geology is also very interesting along the way. As the trail winds closer to the steep foot of the mountain, the vegetation is interspersed more and more with fallen rocks and boulders eroded from the western face of Pass Mountain. My knowledge of Arizona’s geology is very limited, but even to the novice, a wide and curiously mixed variety of sedimentary and igneous remnants are strewn on all sides. Animal life was sparse this time, due no doubt to the hundred or more jubilant and barely supervised children bouncing up and down the trail.

The trail gradually gets steeper as it approaches and ascends the 45° lower slope of the mountain, but only in a few spots is the trail more than an uphill walk. Eventually, it reaches the vertical cliff formed by the 20-meter or so band of light, slightly orange rock (possibly rhyolite) two thirds of the way up the mountain; this band of rock is easily visible from all over the East valley, and gives the mountain its unmistakable appearance. The trail continues south, skirting the gradually rising cliff, and finally comes to Wind Cave. This is a shallow wind-erosion feature which, during the summer, is home to a number of bees’ nests, which are built within the porous rock itself. There are a number of nice places to sit and enjoy the view toward Phoenix, but since this is the end of the “official” Wind Cave trail, there are often many people here. On this occasion it was particularly crowded, as it was the destination of all the Cub Scouts mentioned earlier.

On the south side of Wind Cave is a sign warning that the trail is not maintained beyond that point. However, the trail is still in pretty good condition, and while it is not as well defined as the lower sections, it is still easy to follow and marked here and there with white arrows painted on the rocks. There are a few places where you have to stop and look around to be sure you’re on the right trail, but it’s not too difficult.

The trail above the cave is much steeper and rockier, passing first through a vein of striking red granite, and then eventually into what I think is a basaltic layer capping the range. The rocks near the top are fairly dense in spots with lichens of a wide range of colors and textures, as well as various types of moss. After 0.25 miles, you reach the north-south ridge between the two main peaks on the mountain, and are rewarded by an impressive view of the Goldfield Mountains, Four Peaks, the Superstitions, and Apache Junction. From here it’s just a short scramble up the rocky ridge to the south summit, where you get a great view in all directions except directly north, this direction being blocked by the north peak a mile or so away. We sat on the summit for about half an hour, eating lunch and enjoying the view, and despite the crowds down below, not a single other person came up the whole time we were there.

The hike down was not particularly noteworthy except for the last look at the brightly colored fields of spring flowers covering the lower slopes and the reminder that this is a fairly long trail compared to Squaw Peak or Camelback.

I strongly recommend this hike for all its peaceful and natural characteristics; again, though, be sure to take advantage of it before it’s too late. Go on a weekday if possible. The Rangers in the park tell me that the weekend crowds are growing rapidly, and their plans to construct new parking lots are not keeping up with the demand. I also urge anyone continuing to the top of the mountain to be very careful on the narrow and rocky upper trail, as it is quite weathered in some spots, and also to exercise the utmost respect for the relatively undisturbed natural surroundings, even if it is disappearing before our eyes.

I will plan at least one more hike on Pass Mountain before the really hot weather arrives, and probably a few during the summer as well, when “for a very good reason” the trail is likely to be more or less deserted!