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Backpack Trip
Grand Canyon National Park
April 8-12, 1998
by Carolyn Parker
  Grand Canyon Map 

Those attending were: Todd Houser, Tracy Lavigne, Dawn Lavigne, Jarvis Lowndes, Carolyn Parker, Joyce Parrish and Robert Bonne.

Day 1

We arrived at Mather Campground at various times; Jarvis, Todd, Joyce and Carolyn set up their tents; Dawn and Tracy arrived after dark and slept in the Jimmy. There was some confusion where the camp sites were reserved, as we weren’t on the main bulletin board roster (Todd had left a message on the side bulletin board). Robert was not able to find the site, so he slept in his car. Temperatures were quite a bit cooler than Phoenix, and got even colder in the night time; seemed like 30° or so! Everyone retired pretty early. Joyce and Todd helped me set up my brand new tent.


Day 2

We woke up shortly after daybreak and ate our oatmeal and drank our coffee and began preparations for the hike down. There was some confusion about where we could park our cars, as they no longer allow parking at the South Kaibab trailhead. So we parked in the Bright Angel Lodge parking lot and rode the bus to the trailhead, arriving around 9:00 AM or so. After posing for a group shot, we began our descent. There was a bit of snow and patches of ice at the top and the going was fairly steep. But nothing too treacherous. The temperature seemed about 40° or so.

We carefully made our way down and within a few hundred vertical feet, the ice was gone. I developed some hot spots that very quickly escalated to full blown blisters. I know, stop when they’re hot. Easier said than done when you are balancing 50 pounds of weight and trying to avoid puddles – if you know what I mean. Dawn stayed behind, monitored the painful progress and secretly carried my extra water bottle.

So, we continued down, down, down, stopping at 1.5 miles at Cedar Ridge, which had a pit toilet. Unfortunately, there is no water available until May 1, so we needed to take more water to compensate, which added to the weight of the packs. A few of us attended to our feet; a few of us stayed just a few moments and trudged on. Meanwhile, the temperature was steadily rising; the sun was out full force with no shade; the packs were heavy; the feet were sore. But the trail was surprisingly navigable. From all the stories you hear, and what you conjure up in your mind, I was apprehensive about this trip, but found the trail not that much different from many other local trails, just on a grander scale.

The temperature was about 80° by the time we reached the Tipoff. I was very dizzy, weak and shaky. It looked and felt like heat exhaustion. Dawn said I hadn’t been eating or drinking enough, although I had been eating and drinking as I normally do on day hikes. Apparently carrying that extra weight on your back is enough to require lots more calories and hydration. Dawn was pretty concerned, and had been radioing ahead advising everyone that I wasn’t doing very well. The rest of the group was about an hour or so ahead of Dawn, Tracy and me. Todd agreed to hike back up and relieve me of my pack, which was very much appreciated. Hey, rookies are allowed this luxury – at least once!

I was able to make much better progress. Dawn and Tracy took their time, recuperating, no doubt, from their valiant vigilance.

So, we eventually all arrived safe and sound and settled in for the evening, with the rushing Bright Angel Creek just a few feet away. Todd retired fairly early. Robert and I explored the area a little, and he and Jarvis visited the Phantom Ranch Canteen for some refreshment.

GC_Apr98

Day 3

Everyone woke up fairly early, feeling both tired from the previous day’s exertion and energetic. It was such an achievement to get this far, but most of us wanted to conserve energy for the hike out the next day. Plus, we had some pretty sore muscles and feet! Not to mention blisters on top of blisters! OUCH. We explored the area, taking in some spectacular views. It was quite gusty, though, and at least two peoples’ hats went skyward; one was rescued; one was not. Let’s just say Dawn has a brand new cap for her heroic efforts. We arrived back at the campsite in the late afternoon to the news that there had been a main water pipeline break, and we would have to conserve water: no water was to be used for cleaning purposes, toilets were not be flushed; instead, we were instructed by the park ranger to flush with a pail of creek water and refill it at the creek – a few, slippery feet away. Fun, especially in the middle of the night! Some of us went to a ranger talk in the amphitheater. Some of us visited the canteen. One of us (hmmm ... whom could that be?) bought some water to wash her hair. Relief!

In the middle of the night, Joyce sprained her ankle, and it was quite swollen the next day. Dr. Dawn bandaged her up, which prevented it from getting any more swollen. She also monitored my blisters and alarmingly swollen toes. Scary!


Day 4 – Easter Sunday

GC_Apr98
It was a gorgeous morning as we headed up to Indian Gardens. Robert had gone ahead as he was doing the climb out in one day, to be back at work on Monday. We monitored his progress and he was up in record time with no problems to report! Todd and I gained a little ahead of the rest of the group, with Todd gaining even more in a short while. For the most part, the weather was ideal; a little rain, but at least the sun wasn’t beating down on us. As we made our way through the switchbacks (I think they call them Devil’s Corkscrew), I lost sight of Todd ahead of me and the rest of the group behind me. It was a little scary, but I kept reminding myself of what Dawn taught me on the trek down: keep hydrating and eating at a minimum of every 20 minutes.

It worked! I arrived alone at Indian Gardens about 2:30 or so (to the best of my recollection) and didn’t see Todd, so I waited about 45 minutes on the park bench at the campground entrance. Then I decided to use the facilities; when I got back, there was Jarvis, then Dawn, then Joyce! They had already arrived and forged ahead to the group site. Dawn was happy to have her flock together once again, still all in one piece.

GC_Apr98
It was a misty trek up; it soon started to rain, then HAIL! Our campsite was a cold, muddy, mess. Tracy and Jarvis continued their card game, and pretty soon the weather broke and we set up our tents. We walked around the area around sundown, we hiked 1.5 miles out to Plateau Point and took some nice photos along the way.

The night time was especially trying for Dawn and her daughter, Tracy. They had anticipated some beautiful nights under the stars, and had not brought their tents. With all the rain, they put their sleeping bags on top of one of the picnic tables. It was a restless, uncomfortable night for them both, and I am sure we were all feeling a lot of sympathy!


Day 5

So, Dawn and Tracy headed up Bright Angel ahead of the pack, to utilize the little energy they had left after the battle with the elements. The packs were heavy, it was cold, and were all a little apprehensive about the last, dreaded 1.5 miles up. But, we eventually made it. Todd moved ahead of the pack, but promised to head back down and relieve us, if needed. Jarvis moved ahead of Joyce and me, and continued at his own pace, as well. So, it was just Joyce and me, plodding along at a pitiful, little pace. Eating and drinking. Eating and drinking. Gotta keep that stamina up.

GC_Apr98
About 1/2 mile or so from the top, here comes Todd to the rescue again!!! He brought some water, relieved Joyce of about 5 lbs. in a fanny pack, gave it to me, and took my pack. I finally made it all the way up (Todd had made it up already for the second time), and I passed him on his way back down to relieve Joyce of her pack. What a guy!

About 2:30 or so, we were all heading on our weary way back to PHOENIX!!!! Home Sweet Home.


P.S. This report needs to be supplemented by everyone else’s “moments”. I am sure it will be a work-in-progress for a while!

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updated May 26, 2017