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At 8:15 AM on a cool and overcast December morning in the desert
foothills of the Superstitions, thirteen Motorola Hiking Club members
and guests gathered around the Peralta Trailhead sign at the north
end of the upper parking lot for a group picture, before starting our
hike to the base of Weaver’s Needle, the most dominant and
well-known landmark in this vast and legendary place known as the
Superstition Wilderness. Our adventurous group of thirteen included
Dan Bishop, Loyd Cook, Candi Cook, Anatoli and Natasha Korkin,
Adam Kostewicz, David Langford, Reza Minaer, Chuck Parsons, Donna
Schwitz, Steve Shaw, Tom Van Lew, and, last but certainly not least,
our illustrious club president, Mike Wargel.
The somewhat tortured and rugged appearance of this present-day
landscape reflects the most violent and extreme forces nature can
render in the form of powerful volcanic eruptions, lava flows, and
hot ash and acids raining down from the skies. Responding to
mysterious and unbelievably powerful forces unleashed from deep
within the earth nearly 30 million years ago, this once relatively
flat and peaceful open country yielded itself to a series of
extremely violent volcanic eruptions that would continue
intermittently for the next 10-15 million years. Over the course
of this vast expanse of time an estimated 2500 cubic miles
(yes, miles) of hot ash and lava would erupt from the bowels of
the earth and explode high into the atmosphere, depositing
billions of tons of debris back onto this now totally transformed
and tortured landscape.
The largest of the resulting collapsed calderas in this vast
volcanic field would yield to yet another long siege of volcanic
activity that would thrust its center thousands of feet upward
to form the present-day Superstition Mountains. Millions of years
of erosion and the scouring action of monstrous flash floods
ripping their way through the inner canyons would give the
Superstitions their current worn and weathered appearance.
Weaver’s Needle itself, known as a volcanic plug in geologic
terms, is the result of the eroding away of the softer
surrounding volcano, leaving behind the harder lava that
solidified in its neck.
Starting out from the Peralta Trailhead at 2400 feet, under a
high thin cloud cover and with a temperature of 60°F., our
intrepid party of thirteen entered this land of myth and legends
called the Superstitions. The very name itself conveys a certain
sense of mystery and anticipation. Will we be the “Unlucky
Thirteen”? Let’s hope not. The Peralta Trail winds its
way north through the base of Peralta Canyon, with its cover of
creosote, jojoba, mesquite, and paloverde. We criss-cross Peralta
Creek from time to time, now reduced to a small trickle, with
occasional pools of life-giving water reflecting the surrounding
mountains.
It isn’t too long before our trail grows narrower and rockier
and goes into a steeper climb, as we make our ascent to Fremont
Saddle, 2.3 miles ahead in the unseen distance. We must now resort
to some boulder and rock hopping on the rougher portions of this
trail. Sumac and scrub oak now line parts of our trail, providing
welcome shade and relief from the intense heat for hikers during
the hotter summer months. Lucky for us, we are much cooler on this
December morning, and the shade is not as critical at this time.
About fifteen minutes into our hike, Mike Wargel casually announces
that he did not bring his camera gear along. This statement coming
from just about anyone else could be pretty much disregarded with
a shrug and a grunt. Mike Wargel – master lensman and photographer
extraordinaire – without a camera? Isn’t that like Babe Ruth
or Hank Aaron steeping up to the plate without a bat, or Kenny G.
showing up for a concert without his sax, or perhaps Roger Williams
sitting down to play with no piano in front of him? Something just
seems to be missing here. Well, Mike, I guess it’s going to
be up to me to document this journey, since I did, after all,
remember to bring my camera gear. I know it’s a pain sometime,
but someone has to do it.
We soon lose our shaded areas altogether, as the trail steadily
gains elevation and the views looking back down Peralta Canyon
become more and more spectacular, the higher we go. At some point
along the trail we see an increasing number of pinnacles and spires
along the ridgelines that begin to remind us of the Chiricahuas.
One peculiar formation seems to remind Mike of a fat toad with a
cupcake sitting on its back. You had to be looking at it from just
the right angle, but, by golly, it did start to resemble a toad
carrying a cupcake. Very astute observation, Mike! I guess I will
have to take a picture for you, since you somehow managed to forget
your camera gear. Unbelievable!
At about the 1¾ mile mark of our climb to Fremont Saddle,
we encounter a series of short, steep switchbacks that remind us
of the dreaded Jacob’s Ladder on the Bright Angel Trail in the
Grand Canyon. Mike and I were struggling along here to catch up
with the rest of the group, who by now were getting close to the
saddle. Mike’s lower back was giving him a problem, and my left
leg was flaring up again from a previous injury. Of course, we
had to stop from time to time to document our journey for the
record.
About halfway through the switchbacks we hear super-hiker
Tom Van Lew over the Motorola TalkAbouts, announcing the
group’s arrival at the saddle and asking us where the heck
we were, anyway. This is from a guy who was wondering if he was
going to be able to make it to the top in one piece, back at
the trailhead. Tom was also worried about making it out of the
Grand Canyon alive back in early October, despite the extra
workouts he was doing at the Center in Chandler. In the end,
he was actually the first one out.
I believe all four of us on that hike (Tom, Mike, Angela Lien,
and myself) had some concerns in that area, wondering if we
would eventually become buzzard food, as we struggled through
sweltering 105°F. temperatures in the Inner Gorge during Mike
Wargel’s infamous 17-Mile Death March. Looking back now, I do
seem to recall several turkey vultures circling overhead,
probably checking us out and thinking to themselves that the
pickings were going to be plentiful today in the canyon —
no need to look any further, since dinner is right below us.
Hey, dibs on the big guy-he just took a stumble. Not too much
longer now. Sorry, Mike, not going to let you live that one down
for a long time. It just makes for too good of a story.
Finally, by 9:45 AM Mike and I joined the rest of our group
at Fremont Saddle-at 3,766 feet, the highest point reached by
trail in the western Superstitions. We had just climbed 1,366
feet in 2.3 miles from the Peralta Trailhead. We all took a
well-deserved rest break here, while admiring the awesome views
to the north of Weaver’s Needle, Peralta Canyon, East Boulder
Canyon, and in the far distance, parts of the Mazatzal and
Goldfield ranges.
Looking to the southeast, we are greeted by
a great view of some of the higher eastern range of the
Superstitions. It is still too early for lunch, so we decide
to push on and start our descent to the very base of
Weaver’s Needle, thrusting its summit high in the distant
blue sky.
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We are, after all, the Trailblazers from the Motorola Hiking
Club, and, as such, we do not merely stop at the saddle and
then turn back like most, but go the extra mile (actually, a
little more than a mile) to investigate this strange needle
more thoroughly, up close and personal. The Peralta Trail soon
starts to drop down rapidly from the north slope of the saddle,
as it goes into a small series of switchbacks (not again!),
before finally emerging from Peralta Canyon and depositing us
along the western wall of East Boulder Canyon. Our morning cloud
cover is starting to break up now, and the white-gray skies are
gradually yielding to blue again, as we make our 450-foot
descent to the base of Weaver’s Needle.
Hiking through the scenic East Boulder Canyon, the discussion
soon leads to the topic of gold. Gold! — hidden treasures
of gold buried away deep within the remote recesses of these
rugged canyons (perhaps near the base of the needle itself?),
tales of mysterious lost mines, stories of half-crazed men
driven nearly insane with gold fever, of men mysteriously
vanishing without a trace in these mountains, talk of Jacob
Waltz and the Lost Dutchman Gold Mine. Fact or fiction? You be
the judge. It’s all part of the legend and the legacy of
this ruggedly beautiful, but often unforgiving place called
the Superstitions.
A mile or so into our descent, and we are now at last on the
floor of East Boulder Canyon, approaching the west side of
Weaver’s Needle. The needle opens up dramatically as we
draw nearer, revealing two separate spires, the tallest thrusting
upward over 1200 feet from the canyon floor and reaching an
elevation of 4,553 feet. We keep a sharp lookout for rock
climbers, who sometime camp out overnight on the summit of the
needle after making their ascent up this steep, sheer-walled
volcanic plug that was named after legendary Indian scout,
trapper, miner, and mountain man, Pauline Weaver. Yes, the
name really is Pauline. Can you imagine the fist-fights he must
have gotten into over that moniker? Made a better mountain man
out of him, no doubt, always fighting to defend his name.
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